We introduce to you a new series of Women In The Spotlight every Monday in our interview section. This week we bring to you the elegant, charming and sensational Adornologist Varuna D Jani. Varuna shares with our correspondent Payal Hindocha her insights on identifying jewelry that best suit you, common mistakes and future trends. Read on…
FMW: When we say Adornologist, what exactly would that mean ?
VDJ: Adorning is more of a science than an art. Similar to what a fashion stylist does for clothing, an adornologist identifies jewelry that best suits you as per your face structure, your skin tone and personality.
FMW: As per you, what is the relevance of jewelry in our wardrobes?
VDJ: Just the way a frame enhances the beauty of a picture, jewelry makes a woman look sensuous and glamorous. You may wear the best of outfits, but till you don’t add some nice earrings or a piece of jewelry you look incomplete.
FMW: Over time, jewelry has been viewed as an investment rather than a fashion statement. How does designer jewelry fit into the scheme of things?
VDJ: Jewelry is much more than an investment. Jewelry is instant glamour and also timeless versatility. Jewelry is definitely an investment, but it should be such that it adorns you more than it adorns the lockers. So you need to buy something that suits you from 20-60. That happens only if you buy jewelry that’s a part of your personality. We should look at a new age heritage, where jewelry you buy can be teamed with all your clothes, which you will like every single day of your life. Jewelry is no longer just a show- case of status and prestige. It’s an adornment that helps in beautifying every single woman.
FMW: Is there a tenet that you would want women to follow, when selecting their rocks?
VDJ: Golden rule is jewelry should always be a part of your personality. It should never over power your personality. It’s the woman and not the jewelry that should be the show- stopper. Also, you don’t need to be decked in jewelry from head to toe, even if you are at the altar. Enchanting Chandelier earrings or a signature cocktail ring can make you stand out without going overboard. Don’t show case a jewelry boutique or a jewelry chaos. Balancing is important. We have three zones in the body. Upper zone that is above your chest. Second zone which is between your chest and legs and third zone from the knees to your feet. So if the first zone is heavily decked up, you need to make everything smaller in the second and third zone. I think its time we transform the Devi into a Diva. So a Devi would be decked up like a goddess. But not a Diva.
FMW: How does a woman decide what jewelry best suits her personality?
VDJ: For me, women usually have either of the four personalities –
Trend Setter- like Sushmita Sen.
She can wear anything. She won’t look bad in anything since she can carry everything with a lot of confidence and oomph. She can carry animal motifs or any other bold statements.
Romantic personality – like Katrina Kaif or someone like you. Basically someone who loves classic but loves a little bit of dangling. She likes excitement, joy and cuteness in her jewelry. So jewelry is something more than just a classic piece. Such a personality will look beautiful in lines jewelry, something which is straight lines. Even if there’s an element of stone it should be only one stone, not too much of it. She would look beautiful in loops but smaller sizes.
Naturalist personality – Kirron Kher or Shabana Azmi. These women can carry opulent stone sizes. An Amrapali is best suited for these people. They need something that is traditional rustic, more of fusion, carrying Indian elements in the design. Temple jewelry would also look beautiful on them.
Classic personality ““ Someone who is very understated elegance, like Nita Ambani or Madhubala. Can’t wear anything that is shouting. It has to be very subtle and understated. These people look very pretty in straight simplistic cuts. Not much of color. Even if they try something different it would be the Chand Balis. Since they fall in the classic zone. They would wear strings, as strings of solitaire lines.
FMW: What are the most common mistakes that brides make when it comes to jewelry?
VDJ: There are a lot of myths surrounding jewelry.
Some brides who wear a red lehenga, automatically assume that they should wear red stones, that is Rubies. But I think that red should go with everything other than red. Similarly if you have a baby pink shade of ghaghra with white embroidery, and the bride wears only diamond jewelry, the flash lights of the camera will wash it out. But if she adds a blue tone to the jewelry with a contemporary baby pink ghaghra. Then it will stand out. Gold and nude outfit, with diamond jewelry in gold polish would again not work. So the gold tones need to be broken with a white tone. It has to be white polish. A blue color would brace the outfit well, if it’s an indo western. If it’s a traditional outfit then red stones would stand out. Stones should complement the attire and also the skin tone. Gold polish enhances dusky or dark skin.
FMW: When you design a collection like this what inspires you?
VDJ: Every woman inspires me. When I see any woman I start thinking how do I adorn her. Like while sitting here with you, I have already thought what would look good on you. I start visualizing what would be the right piece for a woman. I am here to make every ordinary woman an extra ordinary woman. I have a design aesthetic and I want to share it with as many people as possible.
FMW: Tell us more about your jewelry?
VDJ: Our Vow collection is modular jewelry. I am the inventor of modular jewelry and got it into the market 5 years ago. I have a world patent for modular bangles that I have created. You can keep changing the bangles with different permutations and combination. Modular jewelry can be enhanced and made to look different over time with add ons. So you never look like you are outdated. Also my passion for jewelry is much more than being just concerned with selling a piece. I don’t want to sell diamonds based on vvs norms that have been existent for years. I would rather sell extraordinary designs to suit the personality of my women clients. When someone wears jewelry from a brand, she is representing the brand and we do justice to that by making her wear the perfect piece, rather than the most expensive piece. My goal is to glamorize women with transparency and offer them value for money.
FMW: For the coming wedding season, what stones do you see coming in to trend. Also other than the usual Rubies and Emeralds, will we see any new stones making a mark?
VDJ: I feel Rubies and Emeralds, especially Emeralds is what an elder woman should wear. They are classy. But some one who is a fresh, romantic personality would look good in multi colored Sapphires. Sapphires have beautiful hues and softer tones. Then again I feel sapphires look good on a petite frame, whereas someone who has a statuesque structure would look good in emeralds.
FMW: Define the collection in a few words?
VDJ: It is personalized and customized to suit your individual identity.
FMW: Message to the readers
VDJ: Do not follow trends when it comes to jewelry above 3 lakhs. Such jewelry is a heritage rather than indulgence. So an expert guidance is needed, to take away the stress and help you in making the right choices. Make choices that you would love for life, rather than exchanging or breaking it or passing on. Heritage to me is what you can carry for an entire lifetime, why part it away or have only the purpose of passing it on as an heirloom and make it sit in the lockers.
By: Payal Hindocha