Aamby Valley India Bridal Fashion Week reached the fifth day in its journey as well as the second last. While the city was hustling in its fast pace, the world had come to a stand still for those who witnessed the artistic collections of Preet S Kapoor, Mandira Wirk and JJ Vallaya.
Artistic, but unsurprising. FMW was expecting no surprise, and not surprised we were as another collection influenced by Royalty of India, this time Kashmir, kutch and Awadh was exhibited on stage by Preet S Kapoor. Lack of innovation, FMW suggests a market study of what today’s bride exactly wants. And if every bride wishes to go royal, then oh boy, there is a need for some serious reformation in India’s bridal culture. We need to grow beyond royalty- it died ages ago and have been exploited ever since.
Although we have lost count of the number of designers going royal this season for bridal wear, what’s different about this collection is that it unites various “kingdoms” in India, be it Kashmir, Awadh or Kutch. The courts are spread majestically all over the nation. Most silhouettes were voluminous.
Making a dramatic show stopping entry under a canopy of flowers was Aditi Rao Hydari in a red heavily embellished gold lehenga, choli and orange dupatta.
Mandira Wirk’s collection was inspired by the pink city of Jaipur. The stage seemed like a splendour architectural marvel, stolen from the pink city and brought to please the aesthetics of Bombay. Miss Universe Canada 2012, Sahar Biniaz was the forerunner of the show as she strutted wearing a gold lehenga with an embroidered jacket. Long and short jackets with peacock and flamingo embroidery were used in plenty and teamed with a variety of outfits like tulip satin skirt, black dhoti pants, pre-draped sari and slim pants. Shararas seem to be major this season as the style has found its way in every designer’s collection- including Mandira Wirk’s. Every ounce of ornamentation there exists were used- resham, zari, gotta, jewels and mirrors. Color board included rich colors like fuchsia, emerald and blue along with heavily used gold.
To end the show on a high bridal note, Mandira had showstopper Sophie Chaudhary wearing a lehenga teamed with a crystal and gold corset and dupatta.
JJ Vallaya’s “The Maharaja of Madrid” collection is a fusion between Spanish and Indian sensibilities. The tomato tanginess was a heavily seen color story in the collection. To emphasise the theme further, group of Indian kathak dancers on the ramp and a fiery Spanish flamenco performer on the top deck of the ship opened the show with a frenzied jugal bandi to Indian and Spanish melodies. The blue/red, rose embroidery, rust, red/printed and the final lehengas and jackets revealed a sensational mix of panelled lehengas, peplum blouses, long luxurious gowns, sensational saris, long sleeved maxis, drop waist floor kissing tulle creations as well as asymmetric anarkalis graced the collection. Roses, paisleys and Spanish motifs were heavily distributed.
Showstopper, Esha Gupta walked in an Indo-Spanish embroidered vision of a Lehenga, halter choli and orange net dupatta.
The amalgamation of two nations wide apart made us feel the world is a small place. JJ Vallaya had presented “The Maharaja of Madrid” recently at Blender’s Pride Fashion Tour as well where he had Malaika Arora as the show stopper. Earlier, he had presented his collection at India Bridal Fashion Week in Delhi, where the showstopper was Kangana and Kabir Bedi. Although, we definitely liked the added turban look better.
Keeping aside the repeated theme of royalty and maharajas, being the optimistic we are, FMW felt a sense of unification, of fading boundaries. Preeti S Kapoor brought Kashmir, Awadh and Kutch while Mandira Wirk brought the pink city Jaipur and JJ Vallaya got on board Madrid. Different cultures, places, and times- United by the language of Fashion.
FMW is looking forward to the grand finale and hoping to see no royalty collections today, aren’t you? xx
By: Akanksha Narang